Split

Split sits on the Dalmatian coast in Croatia built directly into and around a Roman palace from 300 AD. The old town is literally the palace with apartments, shops, and bars filling ancient walls and courtyards. It’s the second biggest city in Croatia and works as a base for island hopping or heading south to Dubrovnik. The waterfront promenade stretches long with palm trees and cafes overlooking the harbor where ferries leave constantly. Two to three days covers the city and nearby spots. Summer gets packed with tourists and prices jump but shoulder seasons stay pleasant and cheaper.

Diocletian’s Palace and Old Town

Diocletian’s Palace isn’t a museum but a living neighborhood where 3000 people actually live inside 1700 year old walls. The Peristyle central square has original columns and sphinx brought from Egypt. The cathedral bell tower rises from the old mausoleum and you can climb for views over red roofs to the sea. The basement halls underneath hold markets and sometimes exhibitions showing the palace foundations. Game of Thrones filmed scenes here in the dungeons. Narrow alleys wind through the palace complex with laundry hanging between ancient stones. Shops and restaurants fill spaces that were Roman rooms. The bronze toe of Grgur Ninski statue outside the north gate stays shiny from tourists rubbing it for luck. Marjan Hill rises west of center with pine forest trails and swimming spots on the rocky coastline below.

Beaches and Island Day Trips

Bacvice Beach near the center has sandy bottom rare for Croatia and locals play picigin a ball game in shallow water. Rocky beaches spread along the coast with clear water everywhere. Ferries run to Hvar, Brac, and other islands perfect for day trips. Hvar town gets fancy and expensive. Zlatni Rat beach on Brac has a unique triangular shape jutting into the sea. Split harbor stays busy with ferries, yachts, and fish restaurants along the waterfront promenade called Riva where everyone walks in the evening.

Food is black risotto, peka meat and vegetables cooked under a bell, pašticada beef stew, fresh fish, fritule mini donuts, gelato, cheap beer, house wine.