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The first thing Modica offers you, before you’ve parked, oriented yourself, or figured out which direction the old town lies, is a biscuit with chili in it. Not metaphorically. An actual crumbly, traditional biscuit, subtly spiced with chili, handed over in a paper bag at a small shop near the entrance to the historic center. The combination sounds like a dare, and first contact does nothing to reassure you. But then something unexpected happens: the heat is delicate, teasing, almost hidden beneath a rich chocolate warmth, cinnamon drifting somewhere underneath,
I used to recommend Dubrovnik without hesitation. I’ve stopped doing that. Dubrovnik is still beautiful. But it’s beautiful the way

The walled town is built on a narrow peninsula, and that shape determines everything. One main street runs from the

Walk out through the main gate with no plan and the waterfront takes over, making it one of the easiest

It took me most of a day in Korčula Town to understand what I was watching. People were not sightseeing

When the fast-ferry docks. This is one of Korčula town’s busy times. The crowd moves, and within a few minutes

The Town Gate is the right place to start, and morning is the right time to do it if you
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