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Traditional wooden sailing boat marked Município de Alcácer do Sal moored on the River Sado

Alcácer do Sal: The Inland Town Comporta Forgets

The first time I stopped in Alcácer do Sal it was almost accidental. I had crossed the bridge many times before on the road between the coast and the Alentejo interior, slowing slightly as the river widened beneath it and the white town rose against the hill. From the driver’s seat it always looked convincing. The castle sat above everything with the sort of quiet authority that tends to belong to places that have been occupied for a very long time. Eventually curiosity won and I turned off the road

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