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I left Lisbon before the city had fully stirred. Crossing the 25 de Abril Bridge, the traffic throbbed beneath me, six lanes of cars and trucks rumbling above the lower rail deck. The wind carried the faint salt tang of the river. Beyond the southern towers, the city receded quickly, replaced by the wide expanse of tidal flats. At low tide, fishermen stood knee-deep in water so shallow it barely reflected the sky, while small boats leaned against the mud like grounded birds. Further east, the Tagus opened into the
A road trip through RÃas Baixas looks easy to cover quickly on a map. The distances between towns are relatively
Evenings in Baiona move differently from the daytime. The pace slows almost automatically once the light begins changing across the
The coastal paths around Cabo Home feel exposed almost immediately, particularly along the Atlantic-facing sections. You hear the Atlantic before
Vigo works well as a base because it sits in the middle of several completely different types of day trip
October changes the rhythm of the RÃas Baixas coast without shutting it down. The crowds thin out, ferry activity becomes
An afternoon between O Grove and La Toja works best when you stop treating it as a checklist of sights
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