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I drove south from Lisbon, the Tagus slipping beneath the 25 de Abril Bridge, and felt the city’s hum fade behind me. Most cars were heading straight for Comporta, but I had slowed, following the bends of the highway toward Setúbal. The air smelled faintly of salt, the river widening as I approached, the red roofs of the port city laid out below the Serra da Arrábida hills. My hands rested on the wheel longer than necessary, taking in the light shifting across the water, the distant curve of Palmela’s
I used to recommend Dubrovnik without hesitation. I’ve stopped doing that. Dubrovnik is still beautiful. But it’s beautiful the way
The walled town is built on a narrow peninsula, and that shape determines everything. One main street runs from the
Walk out through the main gate with no plan and the waterfront takes over, making it one of the easiest

It took me most of a day in Korčula Town to understand what I was watching. People were not sightseeing

When the fast-ferry docks. This is one of Korčula town’s busy times. The crowd moves, and within a few minutes

The Town Gate is the right place to start, and morning is the right time to do it if you
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