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Modica and Ragusa share the Val di Noto's Baroque heritage, and Modica's tiered limestone townscape here shows why, with the Cathedral of San Giorgio rising through densely packed honey-coloured buildings across the hillside, framed by olive branches and red roses in the foreground.

From Chocolate to Cathedrals: Discovering Modica and Ragusa

The first thing Modica offers you, before you’ve parked, oriented yourself, or figured out which direction the old town lies, is a biscuit with chili in it. Not metaphorically. An actual crumbly, traditional biscuit, subtly spiced with chili, handed over in a paper bag at a small shop near the entrance to the historic center. The combination sounds like a dare, and first contact does nothing to reassure you. But then something unexpected happens: the heat is delicate, teasing, almost hidden beneath a rich chocolate warmth, cinnamon drifting somewhere underneath,

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