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Thatched beach bar and wooden boardwalk at Praia do Pêgo on the Lisbon to Comporta coast

Lisbon to Comporta: How the Landscape Arrives

I left Lisbon before the city had fully stirred. Crossing the 25 de Abril Bridge, the traffic throbbed beneath me, six lanes of cars and trucks rumbling above the lower rail deck. The wind carried the faint salt tang of the river. Beyond the southern towers, the city receded quickly, replaced by the wide expanse of tidal flats. At low tide, fishermen stood knee-deep in water so shallow it barely reflected the sky, while small boats leaned against the mud like grounded birds. Further east, the Tagus opened into the

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